TIG Brazed File Knife

TIG Brazed File Knife

hey Jody here today I’m gonna build a
knife out of a file I know this has been done many times before but i have never seen it
done the way I’m gonna do it now the handle of a file is generally not
hardened. I’m able to cut the handle with this file so it’s fairly soft. it softer
than the cutting surface anyway but it’s still the same material type . it’s still
hardenedable . Files are made from things like 1095 carbon steel and a lot of times
they won’t tell you exactly what’s in it sometimes it might have a little bit of
chromium or a little vanadium or something like that in it for hardenability
. a simple way to test hardenability easily is to make a quick puddle like wtih a tig arc. you
know it reaches transition temperature because it’s melting and it’s like
filing a ball bearing right there that file is just slipping over it and not
cutting at all so it got a whole lot harder and the reason that makes a
difference for this video is I’m going to build up a bronze handle using
aluminum bronze and silicon bronze and because it TIG brazing and not TIG welding
I should be able to do this without exceeding the transition temperature in
the area that would make it brittle and likely to snap between the handle and the
cutting surface. I’m using alternating current today because I find that really
helps in not diluting any of the base metal in with the with the aluminum
bronze and incidentally this is the way I repair a whole lot of cast iron parts
too with a preheat. but TIG brazing with aluminum bronze it’s stronger than
silicon bronze and when you use AC it lets you wet a bead in without diluting
hardly any base metal and on high carbon steels and on cast iron that’s a big
deal doing the same thing here just sped up
and then I decided you know it’s gonna go a whole lot quicker with backing. I
can just lay the heat to it and really pour the metal to it without it sagging
over the edges if I put it against a piece of aluminum backing like this I’ll
show that right here see me just kind of pushing rod in there I can go along it
at a nice slow speed but I can feed a whole lot of rod in there it traps are
gone it doesn’t let the bead sag anywhere having that aluminum backing
now if you use too thin of aluminum it can easily melt the aluminum and kind
of create a well it’ll usually be brittle and snap right off but you don’t
want that so here it’s just sped up and I’m able to just you know periodically
wire wheel sand and whatnot to get a good clean surface so that it flows and
after I get a full layer of aluminum bronze on this thing with AC I will
switch to silicon bronze really just mainly because I didn’t have enough of
either one to finish the job and I like the idea of aluminum bronze for the
first layer that little bit of aluminum in aluminum bronze kind of retards
hardening a little bit on that fusion layer which is also a good thing on cast
iron repairs but after I get the first layer in and I run out of aluminum
bronze that I’ll just switch over to silicon bronze and finish the job
takes a lot of beads here and I’m speeding this up a whole bunch and I’m
rushing it a little bit you can see it’s getting red-hot here and there but a
funny thing happens when you’re doing this because because of the bronze is so
much more thermally conductive than the steel even though it’s red-hot it’s
still pulling heat out of the steel and the Steel’s not getting hot I can hold
the steel on the end no problem after even camping out for a
long long time here building this up a little more contouring putting it in a
vise touching it up here and there and it’ll be ready to put the finger pieces
on there are a lot of welding textbooks and you can even find things online like
on blacksmith forums that give you color temperature and according to what I saw
this is roughly where we’re at here so I only got a little bit over 800 even in
that fusion area so it should be slightly annealed maybe in that area but
not hardened you may have heard me once or twice talk about going to fabtech. At
the last fabtech I got some samples of these walter wheels enduro flex Alu flap discs
they’re designed for aluminum to not load up with aluminum but they work
great for bronze too long as you keep it cool it gets pretty
hot but they didn’t load up at all they took off a lot of material and left a
good finish so once I got that roughed out I’m cutting some finger pieces here
out of I believe this is inch and a quarter
pipe just depends on how big your fingers are making some marks there
between them and then I cut some pieces out so that it fit my fingers the
spacing better and I’ll get a few tack welds on that using silicon bronze and
then I mark the areas in between because I don’t want to have to fill in those
big huge holes and possibly have voids and pockets and have it want to build up
pressure and have all kinds of pinholes and stuff like that so I’m kind of just
really quickly slamming a lot of metal in there and I’m gonna grind it down I
get to a point to where those little areas are sort of filled up that’s
manageable there using a little spacer piece to get things situated and
centered up I get this whole thing tacked up there’s still a whole lot of
thick brazing to do I want to put tick braze everywhere on this thing because I
want basically I don’t want there to be any steel showing or a very little steel
showing I’m gonna sand it down I’m gonna polish it all up hopefully be nice and
shiny and pretty when I’m done and this is sort of patterned after the trench
knives of World War one and World War two you see them all over the Internet
some of them have skull breakers on the end like this and whatnot but I’m just
sort of patterning it after historical pieces but then putting my own touch on
it alternating heat here and there so that things don’t get overheated and
just slamming a whole bunch of silicon bronze in there I’m on DC now by the way again using that Walther wheel getting
things roughed out and I decided to go ahead and tape the handle up and go
ahead and work on the blade a little bit here before I get a polish on the handle
because I don’t want to scratch it up picked up these at this last fabtech to
is called a Walther excavator it’s a ceramic hard rock and I saw a demo at
fab tech where it really removed a lot of material really quickly so I thought
it’d be a good idea to hog the material off basically using this thing it’s
working great and it’s actually not heating the piece up too much but I’m
still stopping every every minute or so and squirting water on this blade to
keep it cool I don’t want it to turn blue I don’t want
lose hardness it’s gonna lose a little bit the next thing is to go to a 80 grit
sanding disc with a backer pad on it and I’m still trying to keep it cool still
trying to you know keep things even and only go in one direction here and it’s
it’s coming along I’m getting pretty close now so I decided to put this two
in one wheel on there is this like sanding pads sandwich between
scotch-brite here on this it leaves a good finish but still removes quite a
bit of material so I’m working it down I’ve heard that Windex helps in use
quarter keeping things cool and also keeping a wheel from loading up so they
give it a try but it’s coming along I’m getting pretty close to being done these
little things are abrasive cartridges we used to call them tootsie rolls in the
aerospace industry once I got all the finger holes sanded out it’s time to put
a final polish on everything. you may have seen a lot of Walter stuff in this video
I’m trying to show them some love because they did send me this polishing
kit a year or two ago and it’s a nice one and I haven’t really said thank you
a whole lot so I’m using it here for this video and that’s my thank you it’s
working great though it’s there’s a whole science to polishing and they’ve
got it down pat with the different steps you’re using I’m just kind of winging it
for this video getting a pretty good polish on everything I don’t really want
a super mirror finish because I’m gonna use this thing and if you get a super
mirror finish that every little pitch shows every little scratch shows I don’t
want that but I do want this

Danny Hutson

100 thoughts on “TIG Brazed File Knife

  1. SUPER video Jody! A work of art knife, a TIG brazing/metallurgy lesson, and a juicy steak to boot. It doesn't get any better than that, very inspiring!👍👍👍

  2. Cool – but in some places having a weapon like that would, not could, get you jail time.
    Depending on the file material, and treatment(s), it may also snap in the transition area between the blade and the handle – some are made from chilled cast iron, which works well in the intended use but is brittle.

  3. Very nice work, but I'm afraid it would probably snap on the first rib it hits! Just kidding. How many pounds of rod did it take?

  4. Talk about padding beads!! That was a lot of buildup. Very cool to see just haw much that aluminum backer helped to really be able to melt a lot of filler on there.

  5. Very cool, your videos helped me get through welding school (GTS! We met there about a year ago and hope to meet again someday!) But I really I love this video and the thor hammer alot because a product is being made. I left GTS to come pipeline in TX and am a rig welder now. Thanks for all the help.

  6. Cool video. I’ve made a few knives and I have one ready for a handle and was considering casting an aluminum handle around the shank, but this is a way better idea. The question of the week is: how many beers does it take to tig braze a handle on knife?

  7. Love some tig brazing . It’s Amazing that your a welder making a knife. I aswell am a field pipe and structure welder and just picked up blacksmithing and bladesmithing about a year ago. And now selling knifes along with welding/fabricating on my time at home from the road. It’s really useful learning more about different metals and about there molecular structure.

  8. FYI @7:02 when sand paper and non-woven nylon abrasive (what 3M brands scotch-Brite) is alternated like that, its called "interleaf". Just figured I'd let anyone interested in buying one know since it's a lot easier to find what you want when you know the industry wide term e.g. "interleaf flap wheel" or "non-woven interleaf flap wheel"

    Having finished stainless steel and other harder metals professionally for years (though I've worked plenty with softer as well) , in my opinion the very best abrasive is Ceramic Alumina, Zirconia isn't even close and aluminum oxide should only be used on wood and even there it stinks. Ceramic Alumina lasts the longest, doesn't load, is self sharpening (though not to the same degree as silicon carbide) and definitely keeps the piece the coolest which is huge on this stainless since SS has very slow thermal dissapation… Norton's Blaze line is the best hands down.

    OH yeah, always finish a metal with a non-woven nylon abrasive alone, it'll close the grain that sandpaper opens and greatly reduce the accumulation of foreign materials and thus slow down tarnish.

  9. Perfect rare steak…maybe a couple cooking episodes? Rare is hard for some folks to attain. Funny thought, it some parts of our country both the dual purpose knife and the steak may be illegal….screw em jody! Awesome video! It was your videos that got me where I am, some day I'll be able to thank you properly.

  10. What ac balance were you using? I tried 90% EN 120Hz #8 25cfh and silbronze and even just enough heat to flow the silb it scums up.

  11. Hey, how did you keep the tig brazes that gold finish? Everytime I do it, it ends up silver and its not what I want. It's practise for a art piece that I want to do but it's not working as I want it.
    Silicone bronze and dc-. Then a 50 grit sanding disc.

  12. Hey Jodi could you please I have a video strictly on gas flow and cup sizes so we can get a visual look on what happens with different types of cups/lenses. Use smoke for Visual reference if possible

  13. Excellent video! Excellent knife 🔪 I love the creative use of the welding process. Thinking outside the 📦 . Well done!

  14. Hey, I have a small favor to ask. Have you made a 7018 (or 6010) 2f t-joint video before? Reason I'm asking because right now in tech school, I'm trying to move on from SMAW to GMAW/FCAW, and the requirement that was set by my welding teacher is to be able to weld in 1f, 2f, 3f, and 4f all on a joint that looks like a plus sign (t-joint with another piece of steel on the opposite side). Thank you if you respond! Great videos!

  15. Great idea and great work showing the temper colors running up the blade from the handle. Files are very hard and knives made out of them will definitely benefit from some tempering. That straw color is about right. Oh yeah, that steak looked pretty tasty. Nice work Jody!

  16. Love watching your videos, I’m always learning something new. even though I’ve left the welding industry for hvac. I still use my everlast almost every weekend doing some type of project, mainly aluminum. I appreciate the time and effort you put into these videos Jody

  17. Hmm..I made a similar one as a young teen learning to weld..took it to school to sell to one of the boys.. It got me kicked out of said school.. With no steak

  18. Just wondering how much Argon a project like that would use up ?
    3 hours welding time at 10-15 cfm, so 180 to 270 cf of Argon …. how many cf in a hip height Argon bottle ?

  19. Hey could you do a video on 3g and 4g 1inch plate with self shielded fluxcore. I’m a welding student about to graduate and I’m testing for the ironworkers union.

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