How to Run Cable Through the Wall Demonstration – Easy Home Cabling Installation – YouTube

How to Run Cable Through the Wall Demonstration – Easy Home Cabling Installation – YouTube


Mike: Well, Grayson and I are here on the second floor. Our object is, we want to get a Cat 5 and a Coax, from the attic down into this outlet hole. Now, here’s what we know. We’ve got insulation in the wall. We’re working with that. The next thing we know up here, Grayson, is that going into this attic, we’re into that little spot where the roof line comes down to the eave of the house. Very hard to get into. Grayson: Awkward to get to, so are we going to drill up or drill down? Mike: Well, we need to drill up, because it will be almost impossible to get a drill to come down. Grayson: Thanks, because I’m the guy that’s going to be in the attic doing this and that will make my job a heck of a lot easier. I don’t have to work my head out here to the corner. Mike: Then, what we’ll do is when we get the hole drilled, we’ll feed one of these fiberglass rods up and pull the cable down. Grayson: I’ll just snag it. This is the theory. Mike: Now, one other thing that we need to find out about the wall is do a little exploratory. We used our fiberglass rod earlier, to discover that we had a fire block in this wall. that we had a fire block in this wall. Now, we need to pick the drill bit. We know from measuring on that fiberglass rod, about where that fire block is and we made a little mark there for ourselves. On that basis, I’m looking here with a two foot drill and a four foot extension, a little easier to work with, but our problem is, we’re only going to get this far in the wall. Grayson: Right. Mike: That means we’d have to pull it back out and put another extension on that thing. That’s difficult. We chose to go ahead and get a six foot extension. Now, there’s one other thing that we’re going to do here. We’re also going to measure to know when we’re probably going to clear that top header up there, Grayson. Grayson: Right. Because if we drill accidentally keep going through one of two things will happen will either go into outer space or we’ll be in a roof, one of the attic joists, in which case, either case, we want to stop. Mike: That’s right. Why don’t you mark that toward the bottom to compensate for the sheet rock up here? Grayson: The piece of tape says, if that tape disappears into the hole, we’re in trouble. We need to back out and try the other corner. Mike: Now, Grayson, if you’ll put the drill on the end of that. Grayson: Alright. Mike: I’ll start looking to get us in the hole here. The reason I want to go ahead and put this in the hole now, is that I’ve got to get this up and I’m going to choose a corner here. The reason I chose a corner is that, that allows me, now, it’s sticking on me. Grayson: Let me give you a hand here. Now, we’re just going to give it some short bursts in reverse. Mike: There we go. Look at there. Now, he puts that in reverse. Grayson: We’ll use the walking ability of these twist drills. That’s right now. I chose to get over into a corner Grayson because that way when I get ready to feed by fiberglass rod, I can find it, rather than just being anywhere in that wall. One other thing, Grayson, I’m going to give it a good shove as you can see through our x-ray wall here, I want to get that thing as vertical up there as I can. That way I get a really straight drill up, don’t I? Grayson: Parallel to the wall again, so we don’t hit daylight prematurely. Let’s give it a shot. Mike: Let her go. Okay, Grayson, we got through the first part. Grayson: Alright. Mike: Alright. Alright, I think we got it Grayson. Up the wall here. Find my spot. I believe I’ve gone through, hopefully I can get to my hole. Just have to work it a little bit. Grayson, I think I’ve gotten it up to the top. Can you see the tip yet? Grayson: Okay, I see it Mike. Okay Mike, pull it back down. Mike: Okay, there we are and we’ve got our cable from the attic down. Narrator: This technique is so common it’s worth demonstrating again. Don’t forget to mark the shaft with tape. It’s a one person job when you get the hang of handling eight feet of shaft with the drill on the end. First, with the drill in reverse, go right for the back corner. Walk the drill up to the cross brace. Pushing the shaft to force the bit flat against the wall before you start drilling. Notice the shaft is slipping in my drill chuck. This is a common problem, for me, anyway. Once through, the bend on the shaft will keep the bit in the corner. It’s easy to get the drill out, if you just give it short bursts in reverse. The point of the previous exercise is to get a pull-cord into the attic. Loop the cord through eight feet of fiberglass rod. Make sure there’s enough slack in the loop to allow either side of the cord to be pulled. Then push the rod in the same corner you previously drilled. The rod will follow the drill path. Pushing the rod hard enough against the roof, will sometimes bend the rod over, forming a nice gap between the cord and the pole to allow easy retrieval. The only difference, when there’s insulation, is that you need to push the bit through the insulation using short jabs in the back corner, and up as much as you can without running the drill. Once in the corner, the drill bit will work its way up without getting tangled.

Danny Hutson

33 thoughts on “How to Run Cable Through the Wall Demonstration – Easy Home Cabling Installation – YouTube

  1. Once in the corner-? YOU HOPE- it won't tangle. Unfortunately WE here in NZ use PINK BATTS (made of fibreglass) which is UNLIKE that soft easily passable yellow stuff YOU have there. OUR fibreglass is VERY EASILY grabbed by drill_bits & basically WINDS ITSELF INTO HUGE BALLS (very quickly) such that sometimes if NOT stopped quickly- can actually BLOW OUT through the wall lining. PLUS- once caught- by a wood_drill (bit) it is VERY difficult to extract the bit either in forwards gear OR IN REVERSE

  2. @cochise7969 Well that SOLVES the reason WHY you use those FLEXI drills- It's blatantly obvious that YOU not only SELDOM if ever have ANY dwangs (horizontal crossmember framework stabilisers) in your walls- YOU don't even USE standard "lining" materials. All I see- are Vertical STUDS with absolutely NO DWANGS (apart from 1- that you call a fireblock?). PLUS your exterior wall cladding is SOLID woodchip wallboard- which is NOT that easy for a woodbit to bite into & go through- UNLIKE GIB BOARD.

  3. @cochise7969 Plus- INSIDE your attic space (ANOTHER EASY OUT) You have a SOLID woodchip "under_roof" lining- which deflects your drills & push poles (try NZ roofing materials of WIRE NETTING- OVER "fire_proof" building paper & directly UNDERNEATH corrogated iron- ALL of which instantly "grabs" & tangles any woodbit that gets anywhere NEAR those items- Plus if 1 then pushes anything UP onto that stuff- whatever gets UP there- generally goes INSIDE the building paper & UP through the wire netting)

  4. The easiest way to drill DOWN in NZ is to simply PULL roofing iron & use SHORT_SHAFT (screw_joint) extension drill rods (as many as needed- 1 after another- until you get ALL the way down the wall- if no fibreglass batts installed- & drop down a draw_mouse) IF fibreglass batts are installed- 1 must use brute strength & PUSH a solid rod down the outer_wall- bypassing ANY framing dwangs by sliding down the outer wall cladding if possible (then attach 1's cable to rod or drawmouse & DRAWBACK cable)

  5. @cochise7969 Nah — not me .. I've retired from crawlin around "inside" all of those nasty places .. such as cobweb filled (fibreglass batt "throat_chocking_itchy_dust") cramped & difficult to access attics & UNDERFLOORS .. as I used to do – (for a crust – as an "Employee" Electrician / Labourer) away back in the 1980's & 1990's .. and NOW do the "Boss" trick = of sitting on my dairie_airie .. in front of a PC screen most days (maybe some young "Kiwi" Toolhead will (if they can FIND the manhole)

  6. @cochise7969 I doubt though that ANY Kiwi Sparkie (or Australian Electrical Contractor- come to that) will ever simply do a VIDEO (whilst working) as NO_ONE is allowed to "run" Electrical Cabling inside walls & attics / underfloor for NEW WIRING INSTALLS in NZ (& Australian Dwellings) UNLESS they HOLD a Full Electrical Registation (or are apprenticed thereunder) as well as a Practicing Licence (by which time- they would ALREADY- have done over 4,000 hours- whilst "training" to qualify for Rego)

  7. Yes! I should have gone to youtube first! best instructional video ever… well I should wait until I actually do it before i say that, but looks really good :D!

  8. Reasons I would not get the drill its highly dangerious. (1) when runing cables you always drill you're hole centre of the timber not the edge (looks like a flaw to me with this drill) some poor guy nailing up a picture will find out for sure. That fine for extra low voltage cabes like cat5 or 6 still chances of damaging the cables are too high.

  9. Wow! This Video is amazing. Such useful information and very well done. I wonder where I can those drill bits in Canada? Also in the "second look" they were using a metal shield to protect the drywall What is that and can I buy it at the same place?
    Thanks Cochise7969 for the post

  10. They sure make it look easy…I'd love to see a video of them doing this with solid drywall and the film crew on the other side with no drywall…whole different story, just being able to see where the bit is, is cheating. This video is done under "perfect" conditions which simply don't exist. Forget about running the bit through an insulated wall, the first few turns of the bit would grab the insulation and make a big ball out of it, making it almost impossible to retrieve your drill bit.

  11. What was the tool he used to retrieve the fiberglass rod while in the attic? (so he didnt have to crawl into the tight space)

  12. With this method you have no idea what your drilling through. Could be water pipes, gas line, conduit. Hope you like the taste of electricity and are explosion proof!!

    Anyone using this method is working on a darwin award. Buy a casket and life insurance before attempting this method.

  13. Some of these bits allow you to attach the cord or cable directly to the tip before pulling back out. So the extra step of using the rod is not needed. Always a little bit of risk with this technique though, but good video.

  14. Nice to see the Knowledge great work Guys thanks for the tip I am CCTV installer but have never seen that trick that's great well done

  15. I want to affix a track light to the ceiling, then run an extension cord to a wall outlet. I do NOT have a junction box. Can I buy a kit to do this? I don't care if the cord is ugly. Thanks!

  16. what is the extension rod you are using, and how does it hold the drill bit? how many sections does it have? And what was used to retrieve the "string" when up in the attic and you can not reach the fiberglass rod by hand?

  17. How does this work for fishish an overhead light receptacle to a wall switch, then the wall switch to a beaker in the basement? All with finished walls? Help??

  18. With regards to drillbit getting tangled up with insulation would it be possible to run a wider pipe (say pvc) up first and run the drill through that so it can't actually touch the insulation?
    EDIT: just realized you would only be able to pass 1 obstacle with that because you can't pass the pipe through the first drilled hole.

  19. I been looking for a way to do this for close to 2 years now.. I want to run hdmi and cat5 above my fireplace, from the side of my fireplace..

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