How to Install Dual Brake Calipers

How to Install Dual Brake Calipers


Hey, guys! ChrisFix here. Today, I’m gonna show you how to install
dual brake calipers. In this case, we’re working on the
DriftStang, my 1998 Mustang GT that I use for
drifting, and we’re going to be installing the dual
calipers on the rear brakes. Right now, we have the stock setup with
the single caliper right here, and what we’re going to do is we’re going
to install another caliper right on the other side, so we can have dual rear calipers. So we’re going to go from this… …to this. Now you might want to run a dual caliper
brake setup to give you more braking power. But in this case, a dual caliper setup is going to allow me to use a hydraulic
E-brake for drifting. When you pull on the hydro E-brake, it’s
going lock up the rear tires which gives you another way to control
the car while you’re drifting. Currently, the stock E-brake in the
DriftStang is cable-operated, and you really have to yank it hard and
multiple times to get it to do anything. And even then, it’s not really a reliable way
to get the rear brakes to lock up. So running two brake calipers and a
hydraulic E-brake is going to help me excel in drifting. Now let me show you how to install a dual
brake caliper setup using common hand tools. And what makes this all possible is the
dual caliper bracket. Now, the stock caliper bracket has one
spot to mount the caliper, and the rest of the bracket is for
mounting the dust shield. This dual caliper bracket removes the
dust shield and allows two calipers to be mounted on
one hub. And to find adapter brackets for your car,
just do a quick search online. These are specific for a Ford rear end, but brackets like this are made for many
different makes and models. In addition to the bracket, you’re also
going to need some brake calipers, and I want to thank Advance Auto Parts
for supporting the video and sending me out these brand new
brake calipers, brake rotors, and brake pads. All of which are going to help me lock up
those rear wheels when I pull that E-brake. And since we need to remove the rear
axle shafts and open up the differential, I’m going to be changing the differential
fluid, and I’m going to show you how to replace
the rear wheel bearings and bearing seals. Again, all that’s using common hand
tools. So, let’s begin! The first thing we want to do is we want
to remove the brake caliper and brake rotor. But before we do that, make sure you
disengage the parking brake. Otherwise, it’s difficult to remove the
brakes. And with the parking brake disengaged,
now we can remove the caliper. And to do that, there are two bolts. There’s one under there, and then there’s
one right up here. So we’ll start with the top bolt. And I’m using a long ratchet to give me some extra leverage. That’s the first bolt, and the second one is
right down here. And this is the last bolt holding in the
caliper, so make sure you hold the caliper so it doesn’t fall off. And with the caliper free, don’t let it just hang there by the brake line. Get a rope or a bungee cord or something
to tie the caliper to the suspension so there’s no pressure on the brake line. And with the brake caliper off to the side,
the next thing we can do is remove the rotor. Now with the brakes removed and out of
the way, we can see our stock caliper bracket. It’s held in with 4 bolts, 2 on each side, and when we remove those bolts, this
caliper bracket is going to come sliding out. The problem is it can’t slide out past this
axle, so we have to remove the axle. This axle is basically this hub right here and a long rod that goes to the
differential. So in order to remove this… We need to open up the rear differential. So at our differential, we have the cover
that’s held on by 10 bolts. And we want to remove the bolts starting
from the bottom. But before we do that, get a drain pan
under the diff just in case it starts to leak. You also want to go check the back of the
differential and find the fill bolt, which is located right there. And to loosen this up, use a box end of a
wrench. In this case, I have an extension. And you want to be sure that the fill bolt
will come out before you drain the differential, because if this bolt is stuck for some
reason and you drain the differential, you won’t be able to fill it up. Alright, now we can start removing the
bottom bolts. And then, work our way up. And just a fair warning, you’re about to
smell the worst smelling thing in your car. Diff fluid has a lot of sulfur in it, which is
an anti-wear additive. And this stuff stinks! So we’re at the last bolt at the top, and
you want to unscrew it about halfway. That way, our cover can’t fall off. Now, carefully pry the bottom of the
cover. Be sure not to gouge the metal of the
differential with the screwdriver. And that fluid doesn’t look too bad. Especially compared to my truck, that
fluid came out looking like mud. But on the DriftStang, it still looks like oil. And once the fluid’s done draining, we can
finish removing that final bolt at the top and remove the cover. And now, we have access to our differential. And while we’re in here, it’s a good idea to
check the teeth on the ring gear. With the car in neutral, you can grab one
of the axles and spin it. And after inspecting all the teeth on the
ring gear, it looks good. I don’t see any chips or indication of
excessive wear. So now, let’s find the differential shaft
lock bolt which is right there. And what this bolt does is it holds in this
pin here, and we need to remove this pin to remove
the axles. Now make sure the car’s in gear or park
so the gears won’t spin, and use a wrench… to remove this 8-millimeter bolt. Good. Now, we can sneak our hand behind the
gear and push the pin out just enough so we can grab onto it and
remove it. With the car back in neutral, turn the axles so that you can see the
spring and the spider gears. Taking a closer look, you can see the end
of the left axle and the end of the right axle. Next, we want to push the axle inwards, and that gives us access to our C-clips
right there. Then we can use one of these stick
magnets to get it in there and remove that C-clip. Perfect! Since we’re doing both axles, you might as well get that other C-clip
while you’re in there. Good, with the C-clip removed, we can
carefully pull the axle all the way out. And just to show you, the C-clip fits into a
channel in the axle. And that’s what prevents the axle from
coming out when you’re driving. Alright, with the axle out of the way, we
have access to our stock backing plate. Now that’s held in by 4 bolts here, but to
get access to the bolts, we have to remove the anti-mone bracket. Now we have access to our 4 bracket
bolts. So get a wrench on the bolt head in the
back and a ratchet on the nut, and start wrenching away! And with all four of those bolts
unscrewed, we can remove the stock bracket. And you really have to hit this slide
hammer hard to get the bearing out. And then now we can add our bearing
seal. And you want to hit that in so it’s just
flush with the axle. Just like that. Alright, so with our bearing and bearing
seal replaced, now let’s install our dual caliper bracket! Actually, before we do that, let’s clean up
the suspension a little bit. That’s better. And with everything all cleaned up, now
we can install our dual caliper bracket. Now we want to push all four of the bolts
through the bracket like so. And I’m going to add a little bit of medium
strength thread locker to the bolts because there’s a lot of vibration and we
don’t want these things coming off. Then let’s tighten the nuts down on each
bolt. And in a crisscross pattern, torque down
each one to 50 ft-lbs. And check it out, that looks awesome, I
can’t wait to get the two calipers on there. Next, we have to install the axle. Installing the axle is simple. It just slides right in, but you want to make
sure that you don’t damage your new bearing or new seal. And with the axle in, now we can go
install our C-clip at the differential. Use your magnet and align that C-clip into
the channel in the axle, and use a screwdriver to push it in the
rest of the way. Then pull the axle out to lock it in place. And one thing I want to mention, you’re
doing the same exact thing on the other side. I’m just not showing it because, well, it’s
the same exact thing. So let’s get the C-clip from the driver side
axle as well. Good, so now we can spin the axle and
put our differential pin in. The pin has a hole on one side and that’s
where our bolt’s going to go through. So make sure the hole is going to line up
with the bolt. So tighten this up, and if you are reusing
the old one, make sure you add Loctite to these threads. And the differential shaft lock bolt has to
get tightened down to around 26 ft-lbs. Now we need to install our differential
cover, but before we can do that, we need to clean off the gasket that’s
stuck on the cover. And the best way to do that is with a
plastic scraper. You don’t want to use a screwdriver or
anything metal, because metal could scratch the surface. But if we use plastic, it’s not going to
scratch it. And another thing that you can use is one
of these abrasive Scotch brite pads. And take your time removing the old
gasket and getting this surface squeaky clean. Now we want to hand-tighten all 10 of
those bolts down. And by the way, if you are using RTV, I’ll
link a video that I did in the description on how to properly use RTV to seal the
differential. Now we’re on one of the most important
steps to prevent leaks, and that’s torquing down the bolts on the differential cover in
the right way. First, we need to see if this differential
cover is aluminum or steel. And this is not magnetic, so this cover is
aluminum. And the reason why we want to see is
because aluminum gets torqued down to 24 ft-lbs, and steel gets torqued down to 33 ft-lbs. So now we can start torquing down the
bolts. I’m going to start with the bottom center
one. And just like you torque down wheels, you
want to go in a crisscross pattern. You don’t want to tighten down any of the
bolts next to each other. So after you get one bolt tightened down, move to the other side and tighten down
another. Another thing I like to do is mark each of
the bolts that I torque down. That way, I don’t forget to torque any bolts
down. Good. And with all the bolts torqued down, our
differential is sealed, and now we can add our fluid. Be sure to check your owner’s manual to
make sure that you’re using the correct type of fluid. You also want to make sure that, if you
have a limited-slip differential, you’re using the correct amount of friction
modifier. And because there isn’t a lot of room to
fill the differential, I’m using this tube. And I’ll show you how to set it up right
now. So to completely fill our differential, I
needed two of these and a little bit extra from a third one. Now we have one last thing that need to
do, and that is installing our brakes. We’ll start with the brake rotor. And now we can install our brake caliper. But I think this would look really good if it
was painted the same color of the car. That’s better. So let’s get it installed. I like to use a little bit of medium strength
thread locker on the caliper mounting bolts to prevent vibrations from loosening
them up. And then we can mount the caliper to our
dual caliper bracket. Hand tighten the top bolt and then hand
tighten the lower bolt. And then tighten these two bolts to 76 ft-
lbs of torque. Next, open the caliper up. Add the inside brake pad, and then the outside brake pad, close it up, and tighten the slide pin bolt to around 25
ft-lbs. Good, our caliper is fully installed. So let’s go and install the other caliper. And remember, we have that anti-mone
bracket that we need to install first. So slide the U-bolt around the axle and attach it to the bracket. Then tighten the two nuts to clamp the
bracket to the axle. Now with the anti-mone bracket bolted in,
we could install this old brake caliper. But I’d rather install this nice, new, freshly
painted caliper. So we’re going to do the same exact thing
as the other caliper. But again in this case, I am installing a
hydro E-brake. Stay tuned for that video coming up. So hopefully, the video was helpful, if it
was, remember to give it a thumbs up. If you’re not a subscriber, consider
subscribing, we got some cool videos coming up.

Danny Hutson

100 thoughts on “How to Install Dual Brake Calipers

  1. This is why I turn my notification bell on for your channel. I know you put a ton of work into your videos but wow dude, I am not sure who else saw how clean the suspension looked, all the painted parts, the calipers, etc… You go way above and beyond and that is why I love this channel! Your attention to detail is exceptional.

  2. 😲😲
    انا من متابعين القناة من بدايت الموستنج بس ما تصورت يوم من الايام يسجل الموضوه بلعربي 😍😍🌺🌺🇸🇦🇸🇦

  3. There’s a reason vehicles only come with one brake caliper per wheel your just going to have more problems down the road just one more brake caliper to lock up on you and a extra pear of pads to replace what a dumb idea coming from a ase certified technician more work on master cylinder

  4. Forgive my ignorance but why can’t you use rtv with a paper gasket? I’ve been told by a mechanic to use a little rtv to keep the paper gasket in place especially in hard to reach places

  5. love the channel, and the in depth explanations, but my god this is a lot of work to get your car to go objectively slower around corners (aka sideways lol)

  6. it feels great to have a pro with the same name as you because they will give you hopes that you dont even know about until you think aboout it deeply

  7. I like all the videos, you make it all look easy with the correct tools. What is the size and manufacturer of the "torque" wrench you use Chris? I want to buy the same one! Thanks for sharing. Grego 😀😍😎😂

  8. Hi dude, i am a new subscriber, all i wanna say is, apart of your attention to detail, the way you explain makes me feel like i can do it now with no fear. Awesome work you do, thanks for those videos.

  9. Где озвучена. Халявщики нет бы хотя-бы что-то сделать самому, а не зарабатывать на чужом труде…

  10. Бздиш много и причем тут задний мост когда ты когда речь заходит о двойных супартов дэбил

  11. Bonsoir où je peux acheter la rache roulement que tu utilises et le coffret que tu utilises pour faire rentrer le roulement s'il te plaît merci?

  12. Великолепно, я хоть по английски и не понимаю что говорит но то что делает все понятно, лайк

  13. Конструкция крепления полуосей занятная, не знаючи можно долго выковыривать их из моста))))

  14. Нахуй он нужен двойной суппорт ? Там что две опорных что-ли? Какой ризон может я не знаю!!

  15. а хули там ставить,когда есть полный комплект?!
    вот если бы сам и с нуля,другое дело было бы!

  16. How did you clean the suspension parts??? I've been snapping my fingers for 2 minutes now and it's still dirty. 🤔

  17. What ratchet set do you use, they look nice, in fact if I could get links to all (or most) of the hand tools you use

  18. Really excellent video! Always informative and entertaining.

    I was wondering if you had a good source for dual caliper brackets?

    Long story short I have Titan swapped Xterra and need to add a second set of calipers to the rear for an e-brake/parking brake. I am having trouble finding something, may consider just having something fabricated but would rather use something that is off the shelf so to speak.

    Keep up the awesome work!

  19. اهنيك على شغلك مرتب ودقيق بس ماتعتقد انو لازم تغير ليات زيت الفرامل وتغير الزيت وتطحط زيت يتحمل طغط اعلى لانك بكل بصاطة زت الغط على الفرامل .

  20. Can it be set up to have the regular brakes engage the dual rears and the front, but have the hydro lever only engage only the rear?

  21. I hope nobody actually runs dual rear calipers off their main brake line. Do not do this. Manufacturers set the brake bias towards the front brakes for a very very good reason.

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