Drum to Disc Brake Conversion DIY

Drum to Disc Brake Conversion DIY


[drum rolling] [Marty] In this episode, we are doing a Drum-to-Disc
Brake conversion. No. No. [Intro] [synthesised voice] MightyCarMods. [MOOG] Welcome to another episode of MightyCarMods
and let’s leave that crappy electro music exactly where it belongs and let’s
get all analog with it, Martin. Let’s get acoustic. -Alright.
-Let’s get all -all disk-y about it.
-OK. So, tell us what we’re gonna do and I’ll lay you down some phat beats on this tom. Hit it! [drumming in rhythm of intro music]
Today, we are going to be removing
the Drum Brakes from 2SEXY, -and we’re going to be applying some Disc Brakes.
-People have been asking for years. They have been asking about this for years. It’s a really cool upgrade if you want to go to the track. Um, if you like Disc Brakes more for whatever reason. But, we’re going to go through the difference between the two as well, and talk about why one is better than the other, but not in all situations. Now, Martin, a few people might be wondering what this is. -[BGM]
-This is a floppy disk. -Except it’s not floppy.
-And: inside, it is. That’s why they’re called “floppy.” No, ‘cos the old ones were floppy. -Oh, but no: they were the big ones.
-Disk. Yeah, they were floppy. But, anyway just for the kids, um: this here is 1.4 megabytes of
data. Which means you’d fit around 500 of these on a CD. Um, around a few thousand of
them on a DVD. And that probably represents around just a couple of frames of your special
video collection, that you keep. In the cupboard. -Um, that’s a floppy disk.
-It is. Is that of any value to you? Do you need it? -Uh, why? Do you want to break it?
-Oh, I don’t want to break it. -But, do you need it?
-Uh, I guess not. I just wanted to throw it over that way
and see if I can aim it at right at the people. -You reckon I could hit them right in the eyeball?
-I reckon you could probably hurt them. -If not them, hurt the camera.
-Alright let’s try. You ready? -Let’s do it.
-Anyway, let’s begin. -[clattering]
-Wow! -That was terrible [chuckles]!
-You missed, but that is an awesome frisbee. -Let’s begin, Martin.
-Let’s do it! Now, Drum Brakes actually work really well and they do what they’re meant to do. So why, you might be wondering, would you want to
change them to Disc Brakes? Well, one of the reasons is that Drum
Brakes get really hot. They’re an enclosed system. The shoes are inside the big drum thing and if you’re continuously beating the crap out of them, which, you’re really not likely
to do on the street, if you’re just driving to the shops. But, if you’re on the track, then you
may overheat them and then they stop working, -they fade and then you got no braking.
-Yeah, but under normal conditions, they obviously work really well, which is why manufacturers still continue to use them. But, we thought that we would show this kind of incredibly thoroughly scientific Uhh… example of how they work. -So, Martin, would you like to do that?
-Alright. So, you’re rollin’ down the road to go get your dirty [censored]. -Yep
-Or your dirty chicken or your dirty burger. Um, and we don’t want to make any claims about any of that food actually being dirty. -No.
-We were just saying that as a, like, matter of speech. It’s probably very clean. -What I mean is you: you dropped it then it fell in the dirt.
-Yep. But, it might have lots of oil and stuff in it. -So, this is the shoe.
-It’s just chillin’. -it’s just chillin’, ‘cos your foot’s not on the brakes.
-Yep. But now, you press the button Martin and… -Yep.
-Oh, look: it’s slowing it down! -But there’s another shoe over there as well.
-There’s another shoe on the other side! -Keep: OK, let’s try and: let’s just get scientific, Martin.
-Oh, man: this smells. No! -[laughs]
-We probably should have tested this before… -Nah, nah: it’s good, man.
-the camera. -But, see: that, when you…
-Alright, try and turn the wheel, Martin! Oh, look! I can’t, because the shoes are stopping it. -Yeah?
-Yeah. That’s awesome. And you know what else is cool about most drum brakes, they’re self-adjusting. So as they wear, there’s a little ratchet thing in there, that slowly pushes out and pushes the shoes closer and closer and closer so they always work. -Yeah.
-Mm. So, there it is. That is how they work. But, Martin, I do believe you’ve got a box full of goodies. [metallic clattering] I do! So, these are all the bits for our Drum-to-Disc conversion. [metallic clattering] -I’m gonna lay them out, then I’m gonna show ya!
-Mad. [metallic clattering] Have you got a brake collar, Martin? What’s that? I’m: I’m wearing a collar? Don’t worry, keep going. -[plastic rustling]
-[metallic clattering] You know when you put like these collars on dogs, so they can’t eat their own balls when
they have had an operation on their testicles? Or on their legs or their feet or their neck? -Oh, that’s to stop you from?
-[tries to bite it off] -Is that stop you from licking your own balls?
-[snickers] Is that what you’re saying? [laughs softly] -[plastic rustling]
-[metallic clattering] -So, here’s what’s mad about this setup, right?
-Yes? This is a Rear Brake setup to suit a Lancer. -Now, a lot of…
-This is from another 2SEXY, isn’t it? Well, a lot of manufacturers
that: you know, they call them “Parts Bin cars?” -Subaru do it as well: like, to keep costs down,
-Yep. they just have certain kind of designs and whatever and then… Oh, man: Skoda and Volkswagen are the masters of it. “Oh, it was awesome on Volkswagens five years ago,” -“chuck it on the new Skoda.”
-Yep. So, on this car, there’s so many different
combinations, which is kind of cool, ‘cos you can pick and choose depending on what you want. So firstly, you can put Magna brakes on it, you can put FTO brakes on it. Um, you can put: -well, there’s single piston and twin piston.
-Do you like FTOs? Um… -Yeah, they’re kinda cool.
-I reckon they’re kinda cool. -They’ve got cool engines in ’em.
-They’re little. -Yeah. I…
-Zippy. -I like the idea of them.
-Like a little flea. It’s just that thing where if they whacked a turbo on it and made it like 4WD, -it would have been huge.
-Well, you could apply that to everything. That’s true. -Um, so there’s a bunch of other things.
-Like my balls. Like, Evo stuff will fit, but you gotta change, you know, a bunch of things. So we’re going for a fairly basic setup because we still want to keep our stud pattern, -which is 4×100.
-Yes. So, this: basically, we pull off the Drums and we put on these, like, holder collar-y things, -which is what the calipers mount up to: like that.
-[laughing triumphantly] -Look at that, Martin.
-And then the discs, which I will get… -[metallic clattering]
-[thuds] Are they all mad and disc-y? -Oh, they’re pretty old.
-Oh, wow. But, they’ll do the job. These are actually: they’re not worn, they’ve just been sitting around for a while, -Yep.
-‘cos it’s, uh, one I bought secondhand. -Um: which also means it’s cheap.
-Yeah. ‘Cos you can go and buy…
-How much was all of this? -Like, $300 for the lot.
-OK. Including the plates and the lines: there’s brake lines on there. [metallic clattering] Including a set of pads, which are pretty much new as well. So, to be clear, you could: you could run this car with drums and you could run it around the track and it’d probably be fine. -Except, ours don’t work. At all!
-Well, ours are busted. The adjusters don’t work, so they won’t adjust themselves over time which means no brakes. And you just don’t want to take risks with brakes and if you’re going to replace it anyway, like we always say: “if you’re gonna be pulling it all apart to change it…” -Make it better.
-“…you might as well upgrade it.” Particularly, with a car like this which, again, the stuff is so cheap and so easy. -Yep
-and so simple that, we can do it in, like, -half an hour to an hour, I reckon.
-And just to steer people off at the pass, because they are going to go “Ah, Drum Brakes are good” and they’re gonna list all these technical reasons about why they’re better and why they’re whatever. -We don’t actually refute any of that stuff.
-Mm. But on a track, um… And under extreme conditions, this is probably going to cool more
efficiently than drum brakes. Which means, our brakes will last longer before they fade. -That’s right.
-But we may actually do another episode on brake cooling as well. At some stage. -Yeah.
-Like a little DIY thing. And there’s a reason: I mean there’s a reason especially when, you know, maybe when this car was new. If you were able to say in the
specifications a four-wheel disc brakes, -or four-wheel disc brakes with ABS or whatever it is.
-People knew it was a “Sports car!” Well it: it just: it was a selling point,
right? So, that’s why this all this stuff bolts on. Like, even, um, Protons, which based a lot of their cars off of Mitsubishi’s designs. -Yeah.
-Um, they came with Disc Brakes as a selling point. So, a lot of the Proton stuff bolts on. -Which is awesome.
-Yep. Like: again, this kind of car, for just parts bin and mixing-and-matching and doing it on the cheap and really seeing being big improvements. -Except, it came from the Lotus parts bin, didn’t it?
-[scoffs] -A bit of a conversation from last time…
-I have no idea! “Proton Satria by Lotus?” -All I know is, we’ve gotta rip off our Drum Brakes,
-Yep. and jam this on. [BGM] [Marty (Voiceover)] The first thing you gotta do is jack up your car. -I was just gonna put this jack stand in.
-[scraping] And then realised that there’s an exhaust there now! [laughs] -The old side exit. Which is on the, uh, on the, uh, sidewalk side, Martin, which was kind of you. Well, that’s the way that the exhaust bends sort of around the car anyway, so that’s… So, it’s towards the people? It was either that, or the hot exhaust next to rubber fuel lines. -Yeah.
-Which would have been exciting in its own way. [Voiceover] Our rear wheels need to come off and the handbrake released, so we can get out Brake Drum off. We’re also pushing the foot brake down, so we don’t lose as much fluid when we disconnect brake lines later on. Next, we need to pull apart the spring and clips that hold the brake shoes on the brake assembly. [metallic clattering] That’s a shoe. And that’s the adjuster. Oh, and that’s the bit that’s that’s broken as well. So, that little tab sits on there, and it auto adjusts by this thing clicking up on that. But, as you can see, that’s worn and not working. And also, the little tab on there is broken completely off. Which means, normally, as they wear, this thing’s going ‘click, click, click,’ and pushing up the shoes out, like that. -Yep.
-But because it’s broken off, it’s not pushing the shoes. -Ah. Hence, why you had no brakes!
-Yeah. Or, just brakes that don’t: weren’t working properly. There’s not much wear on the shoes
themselves. They look exactly like brake pads, actually. -The material on them is very similar.
-[clattering] There are brake pad’s got that much material, your drum shoes’ got, -you know, that much.
-[clattering] But, look at the surface area as well. You got that: double that actually, versus -two of them.
-There’s a lot more, isn’t there? Yeah. [Voiceover] The brake lines can be disconnected from the back of the pistons using a pipe spanner and the clips removed using pliers. Now, brakes and suspension are often very, very difficult to get apart. Uh, and one of the reasons for that is often to do with the tools you have. So, with one of those kinda normal regular spanners you’d find, you don’t have a lot of leverage, meaning something that’s done up really tight, can beat you. Um: the easiest way to get around that, is to
get yourself a couple of long spanners. They may be useless sometimes, because they’re too big to get in. But, if you’ve got something really tight and you can get one of these spanners on it, the amount of leverage that you get to
crack that bolt will make all the difference. And can be the difference between getting the job done, or taking it to a mechanic, or just being beaten. And no one likes to get beaten by their car. [BGM] [Voiceover] We need to remove the bolt that holds the axle onto the hub. They are often very tight, so you may need to crack this with a long breaker bar, while the wheel is still on the
ground or use a powerful rattle gun. The backing plate that mounts the brake piston and handbrake brackets has four 12mm bolts holding it onto the hub. We’re lucky that, in our case, we can get factory parts that will fit this particular hub. If you’re retro-fitting non-standard parts this is where you’ll need to adapt to fit. For all the benefits of Drum Brakes, And what they do and cheaper to make and everything, obviously, manufacturers know that discs are better for cars that are gonna be, possibly doing track-days right? Because, if you look at, uh, Rexys, STis and stuff, Yep. -they’ve got Disc Brakes all the way around,
-Yep. but, some of the lower spec Subarus don’t, right? -That’s right.
-Like, just normal Imprezas? Yeah. If you get: I mean, I don’t know what year it changed, but if you get like a base-model Impreza, -Yeah.
-they still have rear Drums. -Yeah.
-You know, front… -Overseas, they call them Im-pret-za.
-Im-pret-za! -Which, it just makes me feel uncomfortable.
-Makes me feel like eating a pretzel. -[BGM: ‘2 Sexy’ – Team Evo]
-[Voiceover] Next, we can grease up the shaft and jam our wheel bearing back onto the axle. It’s a good time to check to make sure
it still spins freely without any grinding. The disc can then be slid on and the caliper installed. Disc Brakes! [Voiceover] A wire brush and brake cleaner takes any loose material off our disc, which can then be installed onto the hub. If you are buying secondhand discs, it can be a good idea to get them machined before installing them. Also make sure you check the minimum thickness, which is often printed on the inside of the disc. Next, we need to put pads into the
caliper and bolt it to the car. Then connect up the brake lines. [tapping] [clattering] So with the brake lines wound in and
the clips on, the factory line fits exactly to the same mounting spots as it did for the drum set up. Although, there isn’t a hard line in this case. It’s just the squidgy, braided factory line. Now, all we have to do, is bleed the brakes and also run the handbrake cables -And that: is done.
-[grinding] [Voiceover] Repeat the process for the other side. In our case, the calipers sit on the rear side of the disc. It’s important to take note of how the calipers are positioned on the car that you get the kit from. It’s a good idea to label everything when you remove them from the donor car. The bleeding port should always face up, so that air can be pushed up and out the top of the caliper when bleeding the brakes. The new brackets and backing plates go on using the new longer bolts. Next, the pistons in the rear calipers
need to be pushed inwards, to make room for the new, thicker brake pads. In our case, it’s wound in, but depending on the car, they can sometimes also be pushed in using a spreader tool. The caliper is then bolted onto the backing plate and the brake lines connected up. Next up, we’re going to extract these old handbrake cables, because the ends of them are different. And the ones from the drums won’t work on the disc brake setup. Also, the handbrake won’t probably be as aggressive either. Because drum brakes: they do have that bigger service area and a lot of clamp force, so they will reef that handbrake on really, really hard. [Voiceover] Handbrakes are called “Emergency Brakes,” because they should still function, even when all hydraulic pressure is lost in the braking system, due to a leak or a damaged line. It’s important that it works properly. Handbrake cables run from the centre console, down and under the rear seats and into the rear hubs, to pull the brake pads onto the disc mechanically. So: this, that, there, here is the old
handbrake cable. Now it’s basically, -just like a cable that you’d have on a go-kart.
-Mm-hm. -Or on a pushbike.
-Or a motorbike. Or one of those old Carbie dildos. But: basically, this here, is the spring
that keeps it under tension, and it’s got this little dildo plug on the end here. -Which is different, to Martin:
-The new cable. Which is actually the same on that
end, so it will fit into our car. -But you will notice it’s a slightly different length.
-I’m gonna keep the length the same. It’s longer because the caliper is on the far side of the rotor rather than being closer. -Yep.
-So, it has to be a little bit longer. And then, it’s got a different thing here that hooks onto the brake calipers. So, instead of the: the caliper squeezing under hydraulic pressure, it’s got another little lever on it, that when it pulls it that pulls the pads onto the disc. Which is why it’s not as strong as a
drum brake as well, -Because a Drum Brake:
-Yep. -as I said before, has a lot more surface area.
-Exactly. So this is like, just pinching, a little thing. Um, but that means we will have a working handbrake, which is important. -Mad! Shall we pump this through, Martin?
-We should pump it through. Let’s do it. It’s bit tricky with the grommet on that end, isn’t it? Yeah. You gotta do it from underneath and then poke it up into the: the front. -Let’s do it.
-So, I’ll start poke it up into your face. OK. I think, Marty, it’s probably going to be easier to stick it in if you grease up the actual rim first. Yeah, I’ll grease it up. I’m gonna roll right down underneath to where the hole is. -Yeah?
-And roll: like I’m going to kind of jam my hand there as much as I can. Yeah. If you stick your fingers in: when I see your fingers coming through the hole, I’ll know that the: that the rest of the: -the shaft of the cable is coming though.
-Sure. -It’s got a rubber on it.
-OK. Um, so that should help. I’m gonna shine a light on it so you can: so you know where to stick it. Alright, cool. I think… -Can you feel it?
-Oh, yep. I can see the end of the knob coming though now. -If you stick your finger on the greasy part?
-Yep. And then the rubber will come through after that. -Oh, it’s wet, isn’t it?
-It is, yeah. Alright. If you keep push: the
tip’s in there at the moment, -Yeah?
-but can you push the rest of it through? Yeah, yeah. I just gotta: I gotta grab it right around the sort of shaft of the… Hold on: the way that I’m sitting I can’t get it all the way: I’m just gonna get on my knees, -and put both hands around it and just pull.
-Yep. -Yeah, that’s it.
-So, I’m gonna come: it’s gonna come out much faster now. Yeah, yeah. Pull it. Pull it real hard, man. That’s the way. The rubber is really stretching, man, ‘cos it’s tight on the hole. Did you say: did you lube it up or not? -Uh, I did a little bit…
-OH! The whole thing just came through! Ah, shit! No: that’s no good. -That’s more than you need, I’m pretty sure.
-Oh, OK. -Hold on: I’ll push it back out again.
-We might have to jam it back out. -Yep.
-Yep. See if you can jam it through. you might need to pull it out before you stick it in again. Oh? The whole thing? Well, I can’t get the rubber back in the
hole, unless you pull the shaft out first. So, do you need me to pull the whole the whole thing completely out or no? Yeah, because the whole thing: the: the: the rubber has fallen off inside. -Alright. I’m going to pull it and
-It’s… -Hold on a sec.
-I can see it. -I’ve got my fingers wrapped around the base of it now.
-I can see the: -the rubber starting to push through. Yeah, that’s it.
-Wait on: the rubber is now… -Is that seated?
-It’s all over the greased up rim. -Yeah.
-Hold on, it’s in! -Nah, perfect man!
-Keep the rubber there. Now push the shaft all: I’m going to put my hand around the base. Now push as hard as you can. -I did. Yep. I’m pushing.
-Keep going, man. Yep, I’m pushing. No, no I need more: oh, that’s it. Yep. It’s coming out in my hand now. It needs to go a little bit more. -Hold on: the rubber’s slipping through the hole.
-You may need to hold. -Hold the rubber with one hand while you pull it:
-Which is just… -pull it through with the other.
-That’s a good idea. I’ll: I’ve got my fingers around the base and now I’ll just pull the shaft. -Push from your end.
-Yep. Pushing. -Oh, there’s a big chunk coming out man.
-Yeah. -That’s: that’s lined up perfectly on my end, mate.
-OK, cool. -[BGM – ‘Game On(feat. Jon Elms)’ – Moog]
-That’s now in. Great, ‘cos this bracket looks like it lines up perfectly. [Moog Voiceover] With the handbrake cables installed and the brackets positioned properly and tightened up, we can move on to bleeding the brakes. It’s a useful skill to service standard brakes and required when you’ve disconnected part of your brake system. First up, we top up the Master Cylinder with good quality brake fluid and then start at the caliper furthest away. As the new fluid is pumped through, watch for air bubbles and when you’ve got a clear stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder nipple, you’re good to go. Make sure you test the brakes before you get back onto the road. If you’re at all unsure about how to do this, make sure you check with a qualified mechanic. -Smashed it, man!
-Yeah. Freakin’ awesome! And now, I think we are ready for our first track shakedown. With what was once a sex-spec, panty-dropping, undy-bursting show car. -Yeah.
-To now a tyre-frying, lap-destroying monster. With functional modifications. -Yeah!
-Yeah. I think it’s all about the functional modifications. I’m all for a nice looking vehicle, -but that’s like…
-Are you? -Well, yeah I am actually.
-Never really… SuperGramps looks cool! It’s all grey and mad painted and looks mad! -This would look mad all painted up, wouldn’t it?
-That’s one example of the cars you’ve owned -that looks good, yes.
-Yeah, no. But that’s cool. I think it’s really cool to be able to get parts off a slightly better model -Yeah.
-That means you can upgrade using factory parts, meaning you know it’s gonna fit, you know it’s gonna work. You’re not, like, guessing about whether something’s been machined properly. -Yeah.
-It just goes “ha-donk” and works. -That’s awesome, man.
-Mm. So, next time on MightyCarMods, we’re going to be heading, to find a bit of, like, track time. -Yeah .
-Or a bit of: bit of concrete. -Yeah.
-Or a tennis court. -Or somethin’. Somewhere to go for a mad skid.
-Somewhere to go for a mad thrash. A tennis court? I don’t know! Whatever you’re into. So, there it is! MightyCarMods/Facebook. The other way ’round. Facebook.com/TheBalls. There it is. MightyCarMods. And as a special treat for you, Martin: look what I’ve got for you, mate. -Are you ready?
-Yeah. -A delicious little treat!
-[cupboard groaning] [plastic rustling] There you go. -Twiglets!
-Ah, twiglets. They’re like meaty explosions! -Yeah.
-Literally, you put them in your mouth and they, like, explode with their meatiness. -Correct.
-It’s awesome! [Outro] [synthesised voice] MightyCarMods.

Danny Hutson

3 thoughts on “Drum to Disc Brake Conversion DIY

  1. 16:58 Thumbs up for the Québec licence plate! You guys are lucky that your plate isn't one of the peeling one. Plates circa 2010-2018 had a defect in the reflective coating that caused the paint to peel. You can replace the plate for free, but it's not rare to see guys that use sharpies to color over the numbers to "fix" the plate.

  2. instead of fucking up the video with your LMAO sarcastic jokes it is better to show actutally the steps. watch some videos of @ChrisFix for reference.

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